A series of interventions have led to better management of the yearly Hindu pilgrimage to the cave shrine of Amarnath, reports Syed Shadab Ali Gillani
It started with a huge rush on June 29. “It was a beeline, uninterrupted queue of horses taking the pilgrims up,” an employee, who served the Amarnath yatra 2024 for three weeks, said. “Then the numbers started falling amid reports that the scorching heat has impacted the Shiv Lingham.”
Still, the yatra has already created a record. The 52-day Hindu pilgrimage to the cave shrine deep into the Pahalgam Mountains has already recorded more than 3.50 lakh pilgrims having their darshan. It concludes on August 19, still a month to go.
The arrangements for the yatra have always been a top priority for the administration in Jammu and Kashmir but in 2014 the focus on security and basic facilities has been comparatively more.
Security Arrangements
For the smooth movement of the pilgrims, the traffic police in Jammu and Kashmir put certain timing restrictions on the Jammu Srinagar National Highway (NH-44); “No yatri will be allowed to cross the Navyug tunnel towards Kashmir after 1500 hours (3 pm). The last vehicle to cross Walnut Factory, Qazigund towards Navyug Tunnel must do so by 1730 hours (5.30 pm)”. The advisory asked the yatris and tourists to “travel in Kashmir Valley between 7 am and 6 pm’, insisting “after 1800 hours, no further movement is allowed, and the vehicles will be directed to the nearest yatri or Security Forces camp”. These restrictions were imposed in the wake of the deteriorating security situation in Parts of Jammu.
The yatra involves the mobilisation of huge human resources. While the army has always remained deployed for ‘area dominance’, thousands of paramilitary and police personnel are deployed to escort the caravans from Bhagwati Nagar (Jammu) to Pahalgam and Baltal. Almost all security forces are perpetually deployed along the twin tracks. While the 48-km Pahalgam route has been the traditional one, the shorter one started in 1996 from Baltal (Sonamarg) which is only 14 km long. People usually prefer the latter as they trek up and down the same day.
The yatra has remained by and large peaceful, barring four militant strikes, one each in 2000, 2001, 2002 and 2017. This year, a three-tier security arrangement is in place. The attack on a bus carrying pilgrims from Shiv Khori shrine to Vaishno Devi killing nine persons was a major factor for enhanced security, this year.
“We are not taking any chances as terrorists have shown their desperation in recent times to stay in the limelight by targeting innocent pilgrims,” an officer involved in the exercise, said. Apart from securing the Yatra Camps, authorities carry out aerial surveillance of the twin tracks using drones and CCTVs. Spotters have also been deployed to keep a vigil on unwanted activities and suspicious elements.
Earlier, a mock drill was conducted at Nunwan Base camp, where two motorcycle-borne dummy assailants simulated an entry into the camp and an alert was sounded by camp security QRT (quick reaction team) within no time cordoned the camp and foiled the attack.
“We have made foolproof security arrangements across Kashmir Valley we have put multi-tier arrangements so that pilgrims will have smooth and secure yatra not only on highways but also on interiors,” V K Birdi, the JKP head in Kashmir said.
The Hi-tech Command Control Centre is operational with approximately 60 personnel from about 20 government departments working day and night. Apart from the police, it comprises CRPF, NDRF, SDRF, Health, PHE, PDD, Telecom, MRT and many others.
Over 17 PTZ high-definition 360-degree view cameras stand installed through the routes from base camps to the cave. Besides, dozens of static cameras have been strategically positioned at key locations from both Baltal and Chandanwari base camps. Since 2022, Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) has been used to track the movement of the pilgrims. Pilgrims are issued RFID cards for real-time tracking, and an insurance cover of Rs 5 lakh has also been provided for further security.
“Security arrangements consider the situation. We also get inputs, and accordingly, the security forces analyse the situation and plan security,” Vijay Kumar Bidhuri, Kashmir Commissioner, said. “Security has been kept at a dynamic level by the security forces, all are well-coordinated, and it is not done as work but as a service.”
Feeding the Pilgrims
Security detail, however, is just part of the overall arrangements. Shri Amarnath Shrine Board (SASB), and the Jammu and Kashmir administration – both headed by the Lt Governor Manoj Sinha, work in close coordination to manage the pilgrimage.
One of the major exercises is to feed the pilgrims. Usually, it is being done by the lunghars, the community kitchens. These are usually non-governmental volunteer groups operating across India. They apply and get permission. Barring the fact that 125 lunghars were permitted to operate on the twin routes in 2024, nothing much is known. These volunteers raise donations around the year and then operate on the yatra routes.
Waste Management
The twin tracks pass through the most fragile ecology that, in various places, includes glaciers. Managing almost half a million people over 60 days does require a huge effort as a result of which a lot of waste is generated. The twin tracks wash down into two major glacier-fed rivulets, the Sindh (Baltal) and Lidder (Pahalgam).
Officials said the Directorate of Rural Sanitation has deployed more than 7,000 sanitation workers since June 27. They say the role of these people is crucial in maintaining cleanliness and adhering to a strict zero-landfill policy along both pilgrimage routes. They claim to use men and machines to keep the tracks clean.
“Since the beginning of the yatra, we have managed to collect a cumulative total of 200 tonnes of waste, with 162.40 tonnes already processed and 34.30 tonnes identified as inert waste,” said an official overseeing the sanitation efforts. Of this 43.30 tonnes is plastic, which has been compacted and stored at designated sites for proper disposal and recycling as the remaining 43.85 tonnes of wet waste is undergoing composting to produce high-quality manure, supporting organic farming initiatives in the region. Inert waste, totalling 34.30 tonnes, has been responsibly managed, with 24 tonnes safely disposed of at the Achan dumping site of the Srinagar Municipal Corporation. According to officials, out of 200 tonnes of waste, the wet waste collection is 85.15 tonnes, of which 85.02 tonnes of wet waste was processed. The dry waste is 80.31 collected out of which 77.38 tonnes were processed and only three tonnes are still to be processed. An additional three tonnes of inert waste are earmarked for further processing through compactors, ensuring minimal environmental impact.
Medical Care
Jammu and Kashmir’s Directorate of Health Services (DHS) has been deploying hundreds of healthcare professionals on the yatra and setting up temporary booths and hospitals. Since 2023, however, there was a change. An unspecified number of physicians, surgeons, cardiologists and other critical health care providers from 12 states (Haryana, UP Delhi, Telangana, Andhra Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, Punjab, West Bengal, Rajasthan, Bihar and Gujarat) and 16 medical institutions (all AIIMS, central Government hospitals and CGHS) are deployed on the twin tracks.
Now the Emergency Medical Relief (EMR) Division is collaborating with the DHS Kashmir to provide healthcare facilities to the pilgrims and the service personnel. EMR joined the efforts after the specific directives of the Supreme Court regarding the medical facilities for the yatra, which included setting up Medical facilities every two kilometres of the route, deployment of doctors from other States establishment of Mortuary facilities, and others.
This year, the Health Ministry in collaboration with ONGC established two 100-bed hospitals at Baltal and Chandanwari. These hospitals have accommodation facilities for staff and all facilities for diagnosis and treatment, including lab facilities, radio diagnosis, gynaecological, ICUs and hyperbaric oxygen chambers. Under its Corporate Social Responsibility initiative, ONGC said in a statement it “constructed permanent hospitals” unlike last year. These hospitals will operate after yatra as well.
In certain cases, seriously ailing patients are being flown to SKIMS directly.
While the non-resident medical staff remains stationed at posts and hospitals, it is the local health giver that is running the major show. The health professionals start their day during the wee hours by seeing every pilgrim for age and health status. Then, they take the peculiar pony ambulance and accompany groups. The recently devised pony ambulance is a horse-mounted emergency response system equipped with medical kits and oxygen cylinders. As the high altitude comes with serious respiratory issues, they are given oxygen as and when required. The novel service has set a new standard for emergency response in remote areas, showcasing Kashmir’s healthcare innovation, the spokesperson said.
Interestingly, however, the local staff is not getting any incentive (as was the practice) while non-locals are getting free air tickets and a hefty sum for working in challenging situations for a fortnight.
Animals Health
Mohammad Sayed, a pony handler, associated with yatra since 1997 admitted that private and government healthcare services are accessible to all. However, the same is not available for horses and mules, the main element of the yearly show.
“This year around 10-15 horses had died in the Sheshnag area only due to various reasons like oxygen deficiency, water loss, and fatigue. It happens almost every year,” Syed said. “There is insurance for such losses, but the documentation process must be completed to claim compensation from the shrine board.” Since 2022, the animals used on the twin tracks have been insured.
“Around Rs 50,000 to 60,000 are provided as insurance to one horse. The insured horses are given tags which are placed near their ears. If an animal dies due to an accident the owner gets the insurance money,” Farooq Ahmed Lone, a pony handler of ten years said. “In some cases, the insurance money is provided with ease, but in others, it is delayed.”
“During yatra, we earn a handsome amount of money,” horse-man Mohammad Ameen from Kangan said. “One horse can earn Rs 60,000 which is quite good.”
Ever since Buta Malik discovered the cave, the pilgrimage has remained a composite exercise with the native Muslims managing the show. These include the horse-men, palki walas and Dandi Walas.
Sayed estimated there are around 40,000 people from across Jammu and Kashmir who are associated with the yatra, directly or indirectly. A witness to nearly two decades of the pilgrimage, he has seen the road upgrade and the surge in numbers. “The yatra sees a massive influx of people, including about 20,000 to 25,000 horsemen, porters, and palanquin bearers. There are also a few thousand tent workers and shopkeepers,” he said.
The Labour Department of Jammu and Kashmir is registering the professional service providers in anticipation of the yatra. By the third of June, more than 13,000 palki walas, pitho walas, dandis, and horses had been registered from, the Baltal side. Data about the Pahalgam side was not immediately available.
Every route to the cave site commands a different price. For a round trip from Sheshnag to the cave the rate is Rs 3050. From Chandanwari, it costs around Rs 8050. He has three horses.
Sayed like fellow horsemen stays at the pilgrimage site and returns with the pilgrims. He confirmed that facilities are available for everyone. The pilgrims pay around Rs 200-250 per night for food and tent accommodations.
Road to the Cave
To further ease the logistics, the government is now working on creating a road right up to the cave. In November 2023, the Border Roads Organisation (BRO) released a video showcasing the ‘successful’ journey of the first vehicles reaching the cave after the trek was expanded under Project Beacon.
This, however, sparked criticism, with the political class and the general citizenry of Jammu and Kashmir expressing environmental concerns. “To provide some ease is one thing, but there is a dire need to have a relook at the matter,” former Chief Minister Omar Abdullah had told reporters. “Taking vehicles to such places is akin to destroying them. Since the yatra started, people from here have carried the yatris on their shoulders and will continue to do so. Playing with our environment in such a way is not good.”
Under strong criticism, the BRO, which had been assigned the job by the Jammu and Kashmir administration in September 2022, had then issued a clarification, saying that the widened are not intended for vehicular movement. It said that the efforts are focused on tracks intended for the movement of yatris on foot, by palkis/dandies, and on ponies.
The track widening aligned with the Supreme Court directives in 2012, which asked for sufficient widening to facilitate pedestrian traffic, alleviate congestion, enhance critical stretches, and incorporate safety measures such as railings and retaining walls, all while considering environmental concerns.
However, the criticism continued. “This is not history; this is the biggest crime against the Hindu religion and faith in nature. Hinduism is all about spiritual immersion in Mother Nature, which is why our pilgrimage sites are in the lap of the Himalayas,” PDP Hindu leader Mohit Bhan famously said. “Converting religious pilgrimages into picnic spots just for political gains is condemnable. We have seen God’s wrath in Joshimath, Kedarnath, yet we are not learning any lesson, rather we are inviting devastation in Kashmir,” Bhan said.
Telecom Connectivity
Although located far up in the mountains and cut off from the rest of the world, the Department of Telecommunications (DoT) has improved telecom infrastructure for pilgrims.
“In collaboration with major telecom operators, including Airtel, BSNL, and Reliance Jio, the infrastructure has been upgraded to provide continuous coverage along the yatra routes,” an official said. To ensure seamless mobile connectivity, a total of 82 sites (Airtel, RJIL, and BSNL) will be active in 2024. “A total of 31 new sites have been installed along the Yatra routes, increasing the total number from 51 in 2023 to 82 in 2024.”
The routes from Lakhanpur to Qazigund and from Qazigund to Pahalgam and Baltal are fully covered with 2G, 3G, 4G, and even 5G technology at many locations. “Additionally, key points of SIM distribution centres have been added to extend telecom facilitation to pilgrims.”
Improved facilities have helped better manage the yearly Hindu pilgrimage. Though the data would be available only after the yatra concludes sources within and outside SASB suggested quite a few deaths have taken place this year. Slightly less than 50 pilgrims died during the yatra for 2023 and 2022.
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